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Changing American Watch Tastes Over The Last 20 Years
Changing American Watch Tastes Over The Last 20 Years
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[b][url=http://www.iwcl.co]iwc[/url][/b] OJ Whatley has a unique perspective on watches. Not only has he been collecting watches for over 20 years, but he also been selling them via his company watchuwant.com based out of Florida. OJ sells pre-owned watches, which means he and his company need to be intimately aware of a range of things that traditional watch retailers don’t need to be as concerned with. Independent pre-owned watch retailers not to only need to be highly selective about the watches they carry (they need to understand demand), but they also need to source them and also determine how to properly price them.
[b][url=http://www.iwcl.co]iwc watches for sale[/url][/b] This means that OJ Whatley and his company WatchUWant have been tracking watch buying and selling trends for years, and I though it would be interesting to discuss how those changing American watch tastes have impacted his business and what he’s discovered. I last spoke to Mr. Whatley when learning about the booming market for companies buying versus selling watches here . Now lets learn what OJ has to say about the last 20 years of watch love in America:
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[b][url=http://www.iwcl.co]iwc replica watch[/url][/b] Ariel Adams: Paint me a picture of what it was like to be a watch lover in the United States around 1995. What brands were the most popular, what was a median price point for a high-end men’s sports watch? How old were you and how much wealth did you have? Where did you buy your watches?
[b][url=http://www.iwcl.co]swiss replica iwc watches[/url][/b] OJ Whatley: In 1995, I was 25 years-old and working for Merrill Lynch as a financial consultant advising high net worth on their investments. Ironically, and as is so often the case, these clients typically had more money than I could even dream about.
I’d always been a lover of watches, having bought the first release TAG Heuer Formula 1 watch (plastic case, rubber strap, and quartz movement) in 1987 from The Sharper Image for a whopping $180 or so. I also had a Ferrari Quartz watch (made and serviced by Cartier and predecessor to the GP Pour Ferrari partnership) that my parents purchased for me from an auction gallery in Ft. Myers Florida.
I’d been fortunate to win my first REAL luxury watch, a stainless steel Rolex Submariner Date, on the “Wheel of Fortune” during college week, representing the University of Miami in May 1989. Even with that watch on my wrist, I still felt a yearning to build my collection and the Cartier Pasha chronograph, Girard Perregaux for Ferrari Chronograph, and the Cartier Tank Americaine Chrono 18k white gold were watches that were on my short list of must haves.
In 1995, access to watches was largely relegated to what department stores like Burdines, Macy’s, Neiman Marcus, etc., carried in their cases and the majority of these watches, while being Swiss, were quartz/battery operated. And funny enough, as long as they weren’t digital calculator watches, I didn’t mind that. These were brands like Movado, Raymond Weil, Tag Heuer, Swiss Army and Gucci. At the time, these were what made up the lion’s share of significant watches in the US, although they were more fashion/jewelry type watches. Even Sharper Image was a pretty strong retail brand for upscale consumer goods at the time, and they were an important vendor of watches from brands like Skaagen, Tag Heuer, and Gruen.
Generally, there was no identified segment of US buyers who were ingrained with the luxury watch bug, at least that I knew, that had watches more complicated or more expensive than a Cartier Pasha, Rolex President or Omega Speedmaster. The US was devoid of the interest in luxury watches that was an everyday part of the culture in Europe and Asia, where luxury watches were a part of life. In the US at this time, at least from my vantage point, the watches I had exposure to pre-internet were seen more as jewelry and fashion accessories and an extension of the jewelry market.

AA: Now fast forward to 2014 and answer the same question. What is it like to be a watch lover today, and compared to 20 years ago, what has changed in regard to what you buy, how much you spend, where you buy, who you are, and how you learn about new products and brands?
OJW: Today, the luxury watch market is overwhelming and bursting at the seams, thanks largely to the internet. The internet offers nearly unlimited selection of watches, buyers, sellers, outlets and channels to find watches. There’s comfort in having access to so much information, as well as people that are so willing to share their knowledge and passion. The ability of a motivated consumer to empower themselves with information, compare prices, better understand the models, and find any information is unparalleled than at any other point in our history. That and the fact that there is now such a big segmentation between what is defined as a jewelry/fashion type watch vs a luxury watch is in greatest contrast to 1995.
If you wanted information in 1995, you went to Tourneau and hoped you’d strike gold in the brochure junk-pile in the corner of each store where they discarded the watch catalogues, books, and brochures. At that time, there were only 2 watch magazines and you could only buy them at certain bookstores that had the largest selection of international magazines. And I remember some of those magazines costing upwards of $12-$20.
One of the scariest developments is the internet’s ability to allow anyone to be anything. Spawning legions of faceless and nameless sellers using nothing more than stock photography or shamelessly stolen photos to advertise watches they may or may not have or that may or not be authentic, let alone new or complete. Too many people believe because it’s on the internet it must be accurate or true and being a sucker for a great deal, they defy their instincts and common sense only to find themselves getting scammed or mislead. The key to harnessing the power of the internet as it relates to watch buying is to do your homework and know the person you are doing business with. Also, develop relationships with trusted resources and don’t settle for anything you have read until you’ve verified it from 3-5 independent and unaffiliated sources.
My personal preference is pre-owned watches because so much of the depreciation is already removed from the purchase. I find it nearly impossible to put a new watch on my wrist knowing how much that first chunk of depreciation upon resale going from new to pre-owned is going to hurt. That’s what excites me about the pre-owned watch market space. That there are clear value-based buying opportunities as a watch dealer sourcing inventory and as a watch dealer looking to provide value-based deals to our clients. Even so, when dealing in pre-owned, it’s best to have a trusted resource by your side, even if that is an experienced full time watch dealer that can help to navigate some of the treacherous waters and is familiar with the scams, pitfalls and potential for misrepresentation or outright fraud.
In 1995, it would have been difficult to spend $5k on a watch. Rather, the average price point for a quartz battery-operated fashion/jewelry watch from a company like Tag Heuer or Breitling was around $1,895. Conversely, in 2014, the average price point of a high quality mechanical stainless steel sport watch from a brand like Omega or Breitling would be closer to around $3,500 (just as long as it wasn’t an in-house movement).
AA: It used to be that the savvy collectors could get some incredible deals by looking for old watches off the beaten track. Today with the internet, so much of that has changed, and watch prices for both new and vintage pieces have soared. Are we in a bubble or is this natural based on your experience?
OJW: I would suggest the internet has made watches more affordable by making a larger pool of watches available through channels other than dealers. Supply has been drastically increased by the internet, eBay, and a host of other communities, trading forums, and aggregator sites. Additionally, the manufacturers are producing watches at the highest levels of production in their history which has led to somewhat of a boom, the byproduct being sellers more motivated to sell and reduced prices.
I don’t see us in a bubble. IMO, The real bubble already burst in 2008, with the Real Estate mortgage debacle and collapse. Before that, people routinely paid $100,000 for a $128,000 Richard Mille and $40,000 for an Audemars Piguet Montoya that retails for $34,000. Now, they only pay $65,000 for that same $128,000 Richard Mille and the Montoya will only sell when offered at a price closer to $33,000.
Savvy consumers will leverage the Internet. It increases competition, but it serves to educate consumers. And the internet is an ideal vehicle for high quality and reputable sellers to differentiate themselves and their offerings by doing things better than everyone else in this market.

AA: Compare three hot watches from the mid-1990s to three hot watches today. How are they different? How are they similar?
OJW: Mind you, I didn’t have a lot of money in the mid 90’s and we didn’t have the internet so much in 1995 so my vantage point to some degree was limited. As such, the Movado Museum Sapphire, Raymond Weil Parsifal, and the Ebel 1911 were “it” watches of the moment, as least as far as I was concerned. And they were all quartz. The average price an average watch buyer paid probably amounted to around $1,595 from my recollection.
The watches of the mid 90’s have virtually nothing in common with the most popular and desirable watches of today. In 1995, the watches that were visible and relevant were for the most part quartz/battery operated, smaller watches of around 35mm or so, and were a product of fashion and jewelry tastes offered by brands like Gucci, Movado and Raymond Weil.
Today’s luxury watches, that category itself has been re-defined to exclude quartz/battery operated watches and essentially watches that have evolved from a jewelry/fashion trend set . So today’s stalwart watches IMO are Panerai PAM305, IWC Big Pilot, Rolex Submariner/GMT/Explorer II/Datejust II (pick one), along with AP Royal Oak Offshore Chrono (pick any model), Ubiquitous Hublot Big Bang Chronograph, along with Cartier Calibre, Breitling Chronomat (&gt;42mm case size—pick one), etc…
Materials innovation, R&amp;D of high tech alloys and metals, even the materials used in straps, departing from the plain leather variety, has played a huge role in changing and evolving the look, feel and features of watches.
Interchangeable and Swappable straps have played a huge role in the change and growing widespread adoption of luxury watches. Being able to easily swap straps to tailor the look and presence of your watch to the occasion is a game-changer, and brands like Panerai and Cartier quickly adopted this, while hold out brands like IWC and even the most blue blooded and conservative of the bands, Patek Philippe embraced this trend (*see Hi Tech strap for patek 5712-R or 5712-G and the legions of fans who swear by it!).
Today, hot watches include models like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (pick any model), the Hublot Big Bang Chrono (again, see any model), and hardcore diver Panerai PAM305 Titanium Submersible. These watches are big, versatile, and make involved personal statements that those old Movados never could. These watches are part of a person’s identity.
Remember, the Movados or Cartiers were just peripheral fashion details to their owners in 1995. Today’s watches celebrate thematic special events, happenings or a larger than life brand ambassadors like PGA Golfer Bubba Watson, tennis star Rafael Nadal (both richarde mille ambassadors), Jason Statham (Panerai), and race car driver Rubens Barrcihello. It’s all about a theme, whether it’s a general diver’s watch, an Extreme watch that is shock resistant, or just a pilot’s watch with great visibility, simple clean dial, and a functioning chronograph. Whatever the theme, the owner identifies more closely with it and celebrates it.
AA: Younger people and those not traditionally into watches now seem to be interested in high-end timepieces. Is this because of more media saturation? Is there something about our culture that has changed?
OJW: Indubitably, the culture has changed. Our scene in the U.S. has embraced luxury watches as a statement of individuality.
Luxury watches TODAY have become sort of like a secret old boy’s club, only hiding in plain sight. The only credentials you need for admittance is a passion for watches demonstrated by an ability to recognize the relevance of each watch along with a level of knowledge about luxury watches. They rest comfortably knowing that ‘heck, half the world will not notice that watch on that guys wrist over there—but to me, that’s the redux Rolex Explorer II now enhanced in size to 42mm (and looks just like Steve McQueen’s big orange hand original 1655 except this one is way bigger!!)—knowing that watch is my ticket and my entr&eacute;e to meet the wearer of this watch and hear all about his exploits and conquests of the watch.
Guys awakened to the fact that you leave the Ferrari or Mercedes in the garage, at the curb, or maybe with the valet–, but the watch comes into the boardroom, the important lunch client meeting at Morton, and more importantly—the bedroom. You can’t say the same thing for that new McLaren MP4. Personally, I almost never remove my watch, and I can’t say any other article I own competes for this kind of full-time attention.
That appreciation for watches has grown with the expansion of the internet. This drives the phenomenon. One guy can leverage the internet to start an entire movement.
Now, there are two types of watch collector in the U.S.: the “fashion” watch collector, who might typically own 10-15 Invicta watches along with a host of other watches from bands like Reactor, Nixon, to name a few (and don’t get me wrong, these are great watches), and the luxury watch collector. The fashion watch never went away, but the sophistication and nuance of the luxury watch market developed as a sportswatch, and now they coexist as different markets.

AA: How has the role of a watch as a status symbol changed over the last 20 years?
OJW: Speaking purely of status, the watch has been transformed from an incidental component of a fashion ensemble to a high-fidelity loudspeaker broadcasting particular branded lifestyles.
Identification with branded image is incredible. Today, the there’s acute sensitivity to televised media, the internet, product placement, and movie appearances in particular. When “The Expendables 2” came out, watchuwant.com was inundated with requests for the Panerai in the movie. If this were 1995, what would that buyer do? He wouldn’t be able to get the watch, that’s what!
The status statement that a watch makes today is closely tied to brand ambassadors. Companies like Richard Mille associate with golfers and tennis stars that play the sports of kings. Omega chose mainstream celebrities to push mainstream luxury products. Today’s watch buyer is very responsive to this, and it drives his perception of the status his watch conveys.
AA: Many people like to comment on the fact that the average watch size has increased over the last 20 years. What was a typical men’s watch size 20 years ago, what about today?
OJW: We’re at the tail end of a 15-year run from a 34-36mm average men’s watch size to an era in which 42mm is probably the average in the benchmark sports watch segment.
Today, the minimum size is probably 40mm, and I believe that change is permanent. Sports watches spawned the era of over-sized watches. They were versatile enough to be worn with a suit – bathing or business. Again, that’s key.
AA: Prices have gone up a lot in 20 years. Some of that is normal and due to inflation, but in many instances, the people who could afford a brand in 1995 may not be able to afford the same brand or model today. Why is that and is that a good or bad thing?
OJW: I have to disagree with this premise. The guy who could afford a Patek in 1995 still can. Relatively speaking, the real wealth necessary to buy a non-bespoke Patek Philippe watch in 1995 was higher than it is today.
The Internet created a separate discount pricing channel, the pre-owned market, that didn’t exist in 1995. Independent dealers on the secondary market have provided the counterweight to rising MSRPs by offering a high-standard of watch for far less than new timepieces. This option wasn’t available in 1995, and it’s the difference maker in today’s pricing landscape.
Whereas the price of a benchmark stainless steel sports watch may have soared from $3K-$9K in the dealer showrooms, the composite effect of aftermarket pricing means that average sports watch now sells for about $3,500. In inflation-adjusted terms, it’s actually less difficult to obtain this watch thanks to the Internet, the aftermarket, and the consumer education this system fosters.
AA: How has the act of buying a watch changed over the last 20 years? Are things improving for retailers? For consumers?
OJW: If the Internet is a vast sea, the pre-owned watch dealer is a direct product of its environment. Most of the organic growth of consumer watch knowledge, demand, supply, and commerce has been driven by the openness and reduced barriers to access that the Internet affords.
Here’s a key point. Although manufacturers have been vilifying pre-owned (independent) dealers since the dawn of the Internet, there is no conflict in this era of factory watch stores. The customer who wants a boutique experience is seeking and paying for that. When he moves on, he’s going to sell that watch to a secondary market buyer.
This provides liquidity for the type of watch buyer who favors the boutique, and that increases the supply, selection, and options for U.S. aftermarket watch consumers. In 2014, we’re moving in that direction, and nobody is pulling for the watchmakers more than the aftermarket dealer.
AA: What has surprised you the most about changing American watch tastes over the last 20 years? What about things you’ve hoped would happen or change that have not?
OJW: The greatest change in the watch buying culture has been the attitudes of consumers towards the aftermarket and pre-owned scene. They’ve embraced it in a big way.
If I were looking into the future from 1995, the 25 year-old OJ would have been surprised to know that with a solid reputation and longstanding client relationships to back it, I’d be able to get a buyer in Iowa to ship me $100,000 in watches on the basis of my word on the phone. That caliber of trust, commitment, and business relationship would not have been possible in ‘95.
On a personal note, I’m really thrilled that I seized early online opportunities to build a collection of vintage Rolex sports references.
What I regret is not buying more pre-Vendome Panerai when I had the chance.
Ariel Adams is the founder and editor of the watch review site aBlogtoWatch.com .
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